How it is that I find myself at the Whitten Inn in Abilene, TX, again, would require an explanation fraught with banal details regarding a shipment of product received in torn and soggy boxes, which I am here to salvage if possible.
The more interesting story is my experience at the Hilton Hotel in Dallas, where I was all week for training.
For 3 days and 3 nights I was in the belly of a whale. Monday evening I drove through 3 hours of torrential downpour which only let up on the southern outskirts of Dallas. I was thus already frazzled. I took solace in the comfort that awaited me at a hotel of renown, a tower of luxury and prestige, proudly standing at the intersection of two multi-lane expressways north of town. Imagine my disappointment then to find that the highway exit took me to nothing resembling my hotel. After circling through backstreets I concluded I had the wrong address and got back on a highway. I called the hotel to ask for directions - the conversation went like this:
me: I need directions to the hotel
operator: OK, sir. I will be glad to help you with that.
[computer keys clicking]
operator: ....ok, lessee here...uh....ok
[more computer noises]
operator: where are you coming from?
me: Im going west on 635, approaching the tollway.
operator: OK...let me just...[clackety clack]...OK, if you're coming north on LBJ...
me: no, I'm going west on 635 or LBJ if you like. Approaching the tollway
operator: West on 635? Ah...hold on a minute...
[15 seconds passes]
operator: OK, from the tollway, you just exit....
me: No, I'm going west on 635. What is the hotel address?
operator: Our address...oh, hold on [paper rattling]...I have it...here...I think...5410 LBJ Freeway. It's at the Lincoln Centre. Do you know where the Lincoln Centre is?
me: No, just... Look. Are you at the hotel yourself?
operator: [silence]
me: You work there, right? How do you...I mean, you drive there every day...right? Can you put someone on who knows their way around?
operator: [computer clacking] The Lincoln Centre, it's on LBJ Freeway
me: I know, but there's no exit there. Where do I exit?
operator: [computer clacking] Let me pull up a map here...
me:
WOULD you just
PUT someone on who knows how to get there, please?
operator: Hold on, I'll put you through to the front desk.
[phone rings for 30 seconds with no answer]
And then I hung up. Amazingly, having never been there, not working there, without any clue about how to penetrate the bureaucracy of highways to get to there, I finally found a way in from the back - the only way in apparently.
The front desk clerk lady gave me a key card and I went up to the 7th floor to my room, bundled with a suitcase, laptop bag over my shoulder, 4 loose items on hangers cutting into one free finger, and my key card. Well. The key did not work - there was no green light, no red light, no noise. I spun the card every different direction, frontwards, backwards. No good. Feeling my eyes haggard with exhaustion, I trundled back down to the front desk with my luggage, and briskly told a different clerk that my key didn't work. He gave me another. To no one's surprise, I went all the way up to find again the key did not work, and came all the way down again. This time the only clerk was yet another man, this time of non-English-speaking lineage, which added a new complication. He gave me two keys, just in case and said in a thick Indian accent, "There is a courtesy phone by the elevator, so you can call if you still have trouble, sir."
I knew as he gave the keys to me that they wouldn't work. Why am I bothering to do this again? I should just insist on another room now, I thought. Or a maintenance escort. But ever non-confrontational, I went back up.
Glory. Neither of the two keys opened my door. I called the front desk for someone to come up and let me in, and I sat on the lonely bench in the elevator alcove. In 5 minutes, a man came along wearing a security uniform.
"Are you going to let me in my room?"
"Yes sir. I 'm not sure what's wrong."
"Are you going to fix the door? Because it needs batteries or something. You can't just let me it, because then I can't leave. The door needs to be fixed."
When we arrived at the door, he asked for my key cards. He put the first one in, and the light turned green, and there was the whirring of a tiny motor, and the door opened. He smiled,
"Sir, there's this little arrow on the card, and you have to..."
"I did exactly that multiple times with 4 different keys!"
And so, I tumbled into my room and shortly thereafter into my bed, which was a giant marshmallow.
Over three days, I spent some time, not much, in the lobby and the bar, and a breakfast cafe. Perhaps it was the deep circles under my eyes that drew everyone's gaze upon me. Or perhaps that I was the only one in the entire hotel who wore jeans to sit in the bar and have a beer. All the other AT&T Convention attendees were in suits and ties, even after hours, even at the bar.
By day two, I began to notice things. The sadness of the hotel employees. The skanky, starving ducks in the water fountain. The 40 foot ceiling in the lobby supported by massive columns three feet in diameter. These columns were not only hollow (I discovered by knocking on them), but were made of something like 1/4 inch pressboard wrapped in wallpaper. I noticed immediately that the omnipresent music was constantly set to techno-dance-pop, frequently so gimpy and childish and throbbing as to be embarrassing to be in the same room with. Decidedly non-Hilton-ish, I thought. More like Studio 54. One expected a laser show at any moment. I asked an older woman in the gift shop what she made of the crazy music that was pumped in louder than normal into her tiny little space. She laughed nervously and urged me to share my thoughts with the front desk.
The most (only?) redeeming encounter of the entire week was having my shoes shined by a black man at a shoe-shine stand. Since I changed to sneakers after the first day, I handed him my dress shoes as I went to my seminar Thursday morning (today? seems so long ago). He respectfully said they would be ready when we broke for lunch. When I went to pick them up, I saw to my astonishment that these 20-year-old Johnston-Murphy's had not looked any better on the day I bought them. I had seen him earlier applying all his force and artistry to another man's shoes - how he polished and buffed, and pulled his towel across the man's feet quickly with both hands. I regret very much not wearing my black shoes then, just so I could sit and watch him. He handed my shoes back to me in a recycled plastic grocery bag and thanked me. I gave him 6 on the $5 he charged, but in that moment I tell you I was in the presence of one of the last of a dying kind - not just shoe shiners, but anyone who humbly, non-self-consciously renews, restores, takes the broken and binds it up - who serves this small remaining segment of a culture of manners and civility and dress, besotted as it is by its corporate evils.
I could sing this man's trade. He doesn't know that a guy now 150 miles away is blogging about him, celebrating his skill, his simplicity. I just want to weep with joy at this discovery - to have a pair of shoes that actually need shining, to pay a skilled artisan a pittance to ply a nearly lost trade. He helps me be a gentleman, he helps me hold back, in the smallest way, the dunking tide of informality. He spurs me, he shows me a door to walk through saying, "Looking nice, sir, you should do it more often." Why wouldn't I hire the services of a shoe shiner every chance I get now?
And thus, the whale coughed me up on the beach, and I now run to Nineveh.